For our first excursion, we are going to Nikko and the lake Chuzenji, around 130km north from Tokyo. From the old time, this place is a destination for pilgrims and thereafter for tourists (economical pilgrims); placed at the bottom of the mountains, Nikko was a religious center in the 8th century and grew in activity during the 17th century. The shrines and temples site is since a couple of years listed at the UNESCO and is nowadays a popular touristic destination for domestic and foreign tourists. A few kilometers to the east, and around 1.000m higher, the Chuzenji-ko and its surroundings were a sacred placed, taboo for women and commoners, thus reserved for priests and noblemen. The lake itself is filling a former volcano crater that exploded around 20.000 years ago.
To go there using local train lines instead of taking the quick shinkansen represents a good 3h trip (one way). We have to be early, and at 5.30am we are up to get the train at 6.25am in Tsurumi. The cars are pretty filled with commuters, and it is only once we leave the surrounding of Tokyo in the direction of Utsunomiya that the number of passengers start to decrease. The landscape also is slightly changing from urban to rural area, with lower density in construction and more rice fields. The mountains start only at Nikko.
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To kill a bit the time, I continue to read "Soulless", a book that, after completed it, would definitively not recommend.
Once in Nikko, we take the bus that drives us to the World Heritage Site that consists in 3 main ensembles, all built during the 17th century. The first temple we enter in is under renovation and, if the external aspect of the main building is not visible, the inside is still open to visit: inside, 3 big golden kannon - a form of Buddha - seated on golden lotus flowers are displayed, one of them is an impressive senjukanzemon, a Buddha with 1.000 arms. Since the building is under maintenance for 10 years, some technical explanations are also displayed on the assembly technique of wood-logs: all the buildings are exclusively built out of wood, and then painted. (notes: in all temples and shrines, it is not allowed to take pictures, therefore no pictures from me).
In another building, the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu is being buried and is being enshrined close by in the next building where it can be venerated as a kami. We all seat in the main hall and a miko will first purify us by waving her haraegushi over our heads, and, with the voice of a phone recorder, she explains us that the cult of the this kami was for noblemen only with a strict protocol in which the position of each and their closeness to the altar was determined (the closer from the altar, the highest the rank) Even the Mikado was participating.
One of the singularity of the area, is that is populated with monkeys. Also, the front of one of the side buildings, which served as a stables for horses (in the shinto setup, the horse is of use for the kami for travelling), bears a carving of three little monkeys, which, according to the popular Chinese and Japanese tradition represent children that "should see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil". Reality is different, we all know that. In the stable, the horse used for display is a real one, and at a moment it was taken out (for a ride maybe) for the greatest entertainment of the children.
In the next temple, there is an interesting display on the ceiling which represents a large dragon. If in itself the picture is not that of interest, it is sound effect behind which is more. A monk proceeds to a demonstration in which he knocks two piece of woods placing himself just below the mouth of the dragon and a peculiar sound is to be eared as an answer, and only when the monk is placing himself at this very spot. Certainly, concealed behind the drawing, a cavity is echoing the clear sound of the percussion into an unusual crystalline tone which is in this case associated to the roar of the dragon.
Around the shrine, there is a twin tree (cypress) that has grown and a tree-some next to it. Both were enshrined and the first represents lovers while the second represents family. Besides, several smaller shrines are build, in one of the is displayed a real big blade of katana. There is also a sacred source where it is explicitly written NOT to throw coins (but it seems people continue to do so) however cleansing your coins with the water and putting them back in your purse is a lucky charm. too bad modern societies developed paper-money...
When we leave the site, the weather is ain't getting better. Just the time to buy a local sweet, a cheese cake, and jump in the bus to go uphills to Chuzenji. the one-way road is particularly crooked and hazed thus forbidding us to have a view on the valley but giving a certain kind of mysterious atmosphere to the whole scenery. At destination, we aim for the Kegon falls which, partially hidden the clouds, complete the specific mood of the place. (the place is also sadly reputed as suicide spot for youths). There, gazing at the landscape, we ate grilled mochi, a sort of glutinous rice cake impaled on a stick. Across the street, several tourist-oriented shops. While we walk toward the lake, a faint but characteristic scent reaches our nostrils: rotten eggs, sulfur, the smell of onsen (the thermal water source). At the hotel, on the lake front, very few customers; only two rooms are booked, with view on the lake. The sole security advise: do not open the window-bay becasue of the monkeys. As we make a round on the lake-side before diner, we can only notice that the place is awfully quiet; although another hotel seems to have more customers, the streets and shops a re empty; maybe the weather (with the clouds we cannot see the other side) or the high season is already due. We buy two flasks of local sake and go for onsen before enjoying our meal served (and commented, just so that we know what we eat) in our room. Once done, our bed will be prepared by the headwaiter: that is, the futon (padded mattresses) are unfolded over the tatami, on the ground. Last round outside, but the very dim light on the streets make the place quite spooky - better enjoy the onsen and drink up our sake in front of TV.
The breakfast consists in onigiri, and the clouds ceiling has climbed up a bit, enabling us to contemplate finally the lake and so the Kegon falls. Somehow, it is no wonder that in the early age the place was consecrated and taboo for commoners: difficult of access, located on higher grounds after several high waterfalls, the green mid mountains surrounding the lake are offering a dedicated place for retreat and meditation, closer to the world of spirits. On the side of the street, just before reaching the lake, a standing rock is said to be a miko who tried to trespass the restricted area, but discovered, the kami turned her into stone. Just the time to purchase two omyiage (souvenirs), we take the bus for the way back downhills. The downwards one-way road is a crooked as the upwards one, but this time we have view in the valley: abrupt, deep green and covered by thick forests.
We drop-off on the way as we want to go the botanical garden, an 'extension' of the Tokyo University one. Alongside the river, this is a nice piece of nature and offers a nice opportunity for a walk among numerous indigenous plants and trees. Unfortunately came the rain along, chasing us out the garden. Trying to get the next bus, still under the rain, we just go a few meter away to see a little shrine and miss the bus. As the next on is only in 30min, we walk down the street under a strengthening rain and stop by each small shrines and temples we come across. Ultimately, we reach Nikko where I go to the bus terminal as I forgot my hat in the bus to get it back. Then we get in th train, completely soaked.
As we are still early in the day when we arrive close to Tokyo, we decide to get a chance to go in the city. Stopping at Hakihabara, the place for electronic devices, we can only notice that the thunderstorm his at it's peak, thunder falling noisily and repeatedly onto the skyscrapers around. We try our luck in Tokyo main station, but here as well it is showering hard and as we walk until the imperial palace our clothes are gluing to our bodies. Defeated by the force of the nature we retreat towards home, not without having purchased in a ambulant market in the train station some pop-rice sweets, veggies and Shizuara green tea for very good price.
In the late afternoon, once the rain paced down, we meet a friend of my wife, in Kawasaki, and go together eat okonomiyaki (a variant of the more famous teppanyaki that consists in a sort of pancake covered with almost whatever you like - okonomi can be translated by what you like). I part from my wife gone partying with some female friend of her, and, left alone in the big city where everything is foreign to me, I treat myself with a sake and go home. All this running under the rain made me tired anyhow.
more picture about this episode on Picasa
In another building, the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu is being buried and is being enshrined close by in the next building where it can be venerated as a kami. We all seat in the main hall and a miko will first purify us by waving her haraegushi over our heads, and, with the voice of a phone recorder, she explains us that the cult of the this kami was for noblemen only with a strict protocol in which the position of each and their closeness to the altar was determined (the closer from the altar, the highest the rank) Even the Mikado was participating.
 |
| see, hear and speak no evils |
In the next temple, there is an interesting display on the ceiling which represents a large dragon. If in itself the picture is not that of interest, it is sound effect behind which is more. A monk proceeds to a demonstration in which he knocks two piece of woods placing himself just below the mouth of the dragon and a peculiar sound is to be eared as an answer, and only when the monk is placing himself at this very spot. Certainly, concealed behind the drawing, a cavity is echoing the clear sound of the percussion into an unusual crystalline tone which is in this case associated to the roar of the dragon.
Around the shrine, there is a twin tree (cypress) that has grown and a tree-some next to it. Both were enshrined and the first represents lovers while the second represents family. Besides, several smaller shrines are build, in one of the is displayed a real big blade of katana. There is also a sacred source where it is explicitly written NOT to throw coins (but it seems people continue to do so) however cleansing your coins with the water and putting them back in your purse is a lucky charm. too bad modern societies developed paper-money...
 |
| with 93m high, one of the highest waterfalls in Japan |
When we leave the site, the weather is ain't getting better. Just the time to buy a local sweet, a cheese cake, and jump in the bus to go uphills to Chuzenji. the one-way road is particularly crooked and hazed thus forbidding us to have a view on the valley but giving a certain kind of mysterious atmosphere to the whole scenery. At destination, we aim for the Kegon falls which, partially hidden the clouds, complete the specific mood of the place. (the place is also sadly reputed as suicide spot for youths). There, gazing at the landscape, we ate grilled mochi, a sort of glutinous rice cake impaled on a stick. Across the street, several tourist-oriented shops. While we walk toward the lake, a faint but characteristic scent reaches our nostrils: rotten eggs, sulfur, the smell of onsen (the thermal water source). At the hotel, on the lake front, very few customers; only two rooms are booked, with view on the lake. The sole security advise: do not open the window-bay becasue of the monkeys. As we make a round on the lake-side before diner, we can only notice that the place is awfully quiet; although another hotel seems to have more customers, the streets and shops a re empty; maybe the weather (with the clouds we cannot see the other side) or the high season is already due. We buy two flasks of local sake and go for onsen before enjoying our meal served (and commented, just so that we know what we eat) in our room. Once done, our bed will be prepared by the headwaiter: that is, the futon (padded mattresses) are unfolded over the tatami, on the ground. Last round outside, but the very dim light on the streets make the place quite spooky - better enjoy the onsen and drink up our sake in front of TV. |
| Chuzenji-ko |
 |
| beware, monkeys might bite or scratch you to get food :) |
As we are still early in the day when we arrive close to Tokyo, we decide to get a chance to go in the city. Stopping at Hakihabara, the place for electronic devices, we can only notice that the thunderstorm his at it's peak, thunder falling noisily and repeatedly onto the skyscrapers around. We try our luck in Tokyo main station, but here as well it is showering hard and as we walk until the imperial palace our clothes are gluing to our bodies. Defeated by the force of the nature we retreat towards home, not without having purchased in a ambulant market in the train station some pop-rice sweets, veggies and Shizuara green tea for very good price.
more picture about this episode on Picasa
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