Sept 6th-9th: Kyoto

   Kyoto, established in a large valley in the mid of the inland and designed on the model of the former Chinese capital Chang'an, was the seat of the imperial court from 794 to 1868. The city was named in different ways during its long history, and the current name still means "Capital City" while imperial and political transfer occurred times ago. As a result of its history, the city is built according to feng-shui directions, its streets grid the area north-south and east-west and numerous temples, palaces and sanctuaries are erected. Kyoto is certainly one of the most famous destination for domestic & foreign tourists. Among the high-school students, a day trip to Kyoto is one of their must-do activities.

   For our 3 days stay in Kyoto, we are hosted in a nice apartment (hotel room upgraded with kitchen), somewhere on a strategic cross-roads mid-way from different relevant locations to visit.  Logistically, we travel with the public transportation, and a day ticket is definitively worth it. Our first  target is located completely to the north; and on the way a large group of children (below 10yo) is getting up  with their few accompanying adults creating some confusion in a now over-crowed bus: given that the bus was previously filled with elderly (above 60yo), I let you imagine the clash. Arrived at Kamigamo Jinja, we observe how a group of workers are re-building up 2 cones of gravel (called tatesuna) in front of the kagura-den (a stand in the precinct used for sacred dances, music and ceremonies), which were certainly eroded during the typhoon. The sanctuary i rather old since it was built during the 8th century, and is well connected to the surrounding woods, with a small river flowing through the precinct. The path way leading from the first torii to the shrine is going through a large wild lawn and when we are on our way back, a numerous group of very young children (below 5yo) as just arrived (again with accompanying adults)  and start innocently to play and crawl around. In front of the sanctuary, we pay a visit to the liquor store standing in front while we wait for the next bus, as they brew their own sake, we purchase a bottle after tasting.

   On our way toward the Kinkaku-ji, we stop at the Imamiya shrine dedicated to kami protecting against epidemics. A stone is displayed, and the legend states it fulfill your wishes if you, 2 times, stroke it thrice and then lift it up; at the second pass the stone is said to weight lighter. We arrive then at the Kinkaku-ji which is one of the tourist highlights of the city (if not from whole Japan). The golden pavilion is placed in front of a pond, surrounded with a nice garden, bonsais, and tourists.
   From there we go by foot toward the Ryôan-Ji, on the way we stop at a casual ramen-shop to eat noodle soup (ramen), to a craftsman shop specialized in silk-clothes painting and a ukiyo-e gallery where we buy 2 small wood-prints (local production). Finally we reach the Ryôan-Ji, a Zen Buddhist temple which main attraction is a rectangular garden made of gravel and stones. From a wooden open terrace, monks can seat and, while observing what is meant to be a representation of the world, meditate. The place indeed invite to peace of mind and meditation, but the number of visitors and photographs prevent from it. The temple is also surrounded by a park.

    A bit further is located Ninna-ji, also a Buddhist complex from the 9th century, far more larger, the park host several large buildings, among these a 5 lobbies pagoda. The main attraction is the shinden, a multi-rooms building connected by a set of footbridges and surrounded by a gravel yard and a Japanese garden.
 

   In the evening, we go close to the district of Gion, along the main river and enter a restaurant which was recommended to us. Since we stopped by a bit on the way and that we had some difficulties to find the right location we arrive a bit late, most of customers are almost finished, and while we seat at the bar with direct view on the kitchen we are served a nice course but we feel a bit lonely toward the end as we are the last customer left. As we go out, we notice how crowed are the bank of the river with teenagers.

   For the next day, the plan is to go to Fushimi Inari, in the south of Kyoto. On our way, we stop at the Higashi Honganji, a massive Buddhist temple made of 2 main buildings (the Goei-dô and the Amida-dô) almost in front of the main train station. The main entrance gate is a huge 27m high building, all of wood, as the rest of the temple. Still in restoration, the praying hall is open to the public. Arrived at the Fushimi Inari Taisha, we are quite surprised by the size of the complex. We came early at is was clear for us that, as it is also one of the main touristic spot of the city, it would be crowed. Mainly dedicated to the white fox kami, also called inari, the main attraction of the site are the pathways made of torii. Walking through only a part of the complex took us the whole morning: behind the entrance building are the long (or much longer than expected) pathways leading deep in the hills and woods to several dispatched sub-shrines and mini-shrine (hokora). After having reached the top of the hill we go down back and exit by another way.

 

   Heading back north, we pass quickly another Zen Buddhist temple; close by, a shooting team is heavily engaged in discussion on a whatever clothing or playing topic on a narrow wooden covered footbridge. We buy 2 noren in a small shop and a kidney bean ice cream.

   With the bus, we reach another touristic highlight, the Kiyomizu-dera, and as the time flies when we arrive there are definitively more people. Built almost like a suspended structure, an old legend pretends that faithful parishioners would jump from the terrace, if they survived their wish would be granted. Many visitors, but no foolish volunteers. Beside the main terrace, a fountain downstairs and the Jishu shrine dedicated to a love and good-match kami (also called Ōkuninushi) are draining a lot of people. The 2 streets leading up to the temple are also a good indicator of how many people are climbing up to the spot; nonetheless, some of them are of quality, and we are deeply impressed by a chocolate-and-matcha-pastry maker: strategically posted at the entry, they distribute samples to lock people inside the shop... very difficult not to go out without taking away anything.

    Later on we stop at a coffee, cutely named fujino tofu cafe and illustrated with bunny-themed posters, to get a tofu-based ice cream. For the evening we treat ourselves with local food that we bring back to the apartment, among others, sushi for sure.

   The next day is our last day in Kyoto. Too much to see, too few days for seeing everything, as the city gathers several centuries of history as capital of Japan, and was spared during WWII, it hosts a large variety of buildings, monuments and work on keeping a certain tradition in keeping things traditional and as authentically as possible. So today will be shopping day ! Around the district of Gion, the area is very commercial, with several pedestrian streets. We spent most of the time there, looking around, visiting, wondering, purchasing, eating.

   In the evening, we aimed to the bus station, from there we take the night bus to Tokyo. A two stories travel bus, diligently and carefully operated by the agent of the JR company: from taking care of the luggage to counting two times how many people are in the bus. The arrival in the early morning gives to the city a different flair, suspiciously quiet.
   For the rest of the day, we would have been in Shibuya, a shopping district in Tokyo, well known for its pedestrian crossing over which are hung over-dimensional screens and other luminescent ads.

   

more picture about this episode on Picasa